October 22:
Stepping out the back door of the 777, down the steep stairs and onto the tarmac, we have arrived in Ethiopia! We meet our gracious host Dawit. He is holding a sign for us that reads "MJ and Stephanie." To Addis Ababa we go! Buildings and signs galore. There's a half of an airplane that appears to be a cafe in the midst of these building and pedestrians flooding the streets. We check into our guest house provided by Keffa Coffee, change and set out for lunch. We are offered every kind of cuisine you can think of but naturally we settle on Ethiopian food. Pulling up to the restaurant there is a window and behind it are three gentleman and what appears to be lamb or sheep that have been recently slaughtered and is now hanging on display. We order a delicious combination or many things including, shiro, kifto, tibs and a leg of lamb, this dish is so colorful! We also order a local beer, St. George's (pronounced Ghee-Or-guess). The food is phenomenal and the beer is just alright. The 3 of us ate and drank like royalty for $6 total , yes $6. Next stop a drive through the city and into the Merkato. What more can a woman ask for? The driving here is slow but intense, there is an understanding to the road that I can not comprehend. 6 lanes of traffic the largest roundabouts you've ever seen and stop lights that are no longer functional. It seems you just keep driving and some how you manage to be dent free in the end. I will however take a pass and not try my hand behind the wheel. We approach the highest point of the city, round the corner and get stuck in traffic. There are donkeys carrying produce and things of all sizes and shapes on their back weaving in and out of the cars, trucks and mini buses filled with people moving across town, sheep herders on the side of the road selling their live stock, men carrying live chickens tied to a string, needless to say this part of the city is bustling and there is a lot to take in. We arrive in the Merkato and the sun is ablaze. We park and enter the masses, watch your step though, the streets are dirty and in places have been wet down creating little mud piles, fermenting garbage and produce provide the air with scents that are less than pleasant and on top of that add diesel fuel and you are in the Merkato. It may sound unpleasant but there is something very pure and beautiful about the atmosphere. This place is amazing, there are sections for everything you can imagine. We don't spend a whole lot of time looking at things closely but we do meet Dawit's uncle, take a few photos and I make my first barter, sunglasses (I foolishly forgot mine at home). After leaving the Merkato we get the grand city tour before the two of us nearly pass out in Dawit's car. Well one of us actually did (some of you can guess... MJ). Off to sleep and hope to recover from the lack there of.
About Me
- tthain
- love + travel + family + friends = passion & lead to our happy life.
23 October 2011
22 October 2011
13 hours to Addis Ababa
October 21
From MJ:
Today is the day. Shower, repack, check out, return car, check bags, get on plane. 1-2-3 simple. That is until I go thru security. Tiffany and I decide to race each other thru security in different lines. I lose be twenty minutes. Travler advice "Keep the blonde next to the beard." While we're waiting for our plane a group of thirty, wearing bright orange-red t-shirts boisterously overwhelms the gate area. I just had to ask "why the matching t-shirts?". In deep AK accents they gleefully reply we're off to Burundi on a mission to spread the good word and build a church. Hm... With some kindness from the airplane gods we were seated in the exit row, which on a 777 mean four feet of extra space. Smiles we're all smiles. We were a little concerned when we saw the three infants near us, but they barely murmured for thirteen hours. The missionaries, on the other hand, seemed to have missed their connection to Las Vegas. The bottomless Chardonnay (Cotes de Gascogne and actually quite lovely) didn't help their zeal one bit. Thankfully alcohol is a depressant, eventually she hugs us and lays us down to sleep. The missionary next to us continually used Tiffany as arm rest, invaded her space and lacked the courtesy to acknowledge his impolite actions. I then saw the book he was reading: The Mosque Exposed. All I can say about this book is that it has an American flag and an Eagle on the cover. It's going to be a long flight.
From MJ:
Today is the day. Shower, repack, check out, return car, check bags, get on plane. 1-2-3 simple. That is until I go thru security. Tiffany and I decide to race each other thru security in different lines. I lose be twenty minutes. Travler advice "Keep the blonde next to the beard." While we're waiting for our plane a group of thirty, wearing bright orange-red t-shirts boisterously overwhelms the gate area. I just had to ask "why the matching t-shirts?". In deep AK accents they gleefully reply we're off to Burundi on a mission to spread the good word and build a church. Hm... With some kindness from the airplane gods we were seated in the exit row, which on a 777 mean four feet of extra space. Smiles we're all smiles. We were a little concerned when we saw the three infants near us, but they barely murmured for thirteen hours. The missionaries, on the other hand, seemed to have missed their connection to Las Vegas. The bottomless Chardonnay (Cotes de Gascogne and actually quite lovely) didn't help their zeal one bit. Thankfully alcohol is a depressant, eventually she hugs us and lays us down to sleep. The missionary next to us continually used Tiffany as arm rest, invaded her space and lacked the courtesy to acknowledge his impolite actions. I then saw the book he was reading: The Mosque Exposed. All I can say about this book is that it has an American flag and an Eagle on the cover. It's going to be a long flight.
32 Hours in DC
October 20
Arriving in Dulles we make our way to the Ethiopian Airlines customer service office to retrieve our hotel voucher. The office is empty, so we make our way to the ticketing counter, also empty. Life is literally bustling around us as we stare at the counter shaking our heads knowing that no one from the airlines will be in this airport today. To the pay phone we go. Sitting on hold for 15 minutes we finally get in touch with someone to only be put on hold another 15 minutes. Finally we think there is a resolution, notes on our account from our call on the 4th, the instructions we receive are to get on the shuttle provided by the airlines, just ask information in the airport, they'll know. Obviously there is a misunderstanding, we need a hotel name to get on the right shuttle... MJ goes to information as I wait on hold to see if this option is legit. Of course it's not! So we get a telephone number to call that we are suppose to call for more information. Great, we disconnect from the call. Dial this number we were provided to find out it is a random Verizon cell number and no one answers. This time MJ phones the airline and again we wait on hold and grow a little more irritated by the minute. He connects with someone that appears to know what we are talking about or at least we thought... After explaining we are in the airport the gentleman says in 10 days you'll receive your voucher sir. MJ sternly explains the situation again and says you have 30 minutes to figure this out or a complaint will be filed with the FAA. He hangs up, we get a little laugh, head to Starbucks for tea and to burn a few minutes. Back to what I consider our own personal phone booth we go. Dial in and wait on hold for ohhhh 25 minutes this time. The charming hold music is now static on the other end. When we finally reach the man we were talking to previously we see the lights in the Ethiopian Airlines office turn on. After a few minutes we get the hotel arrangements. MJ says to me it looks like he was on his day off. Now we feel remorse at pressing so hard for our free hotel room. This poor guy had to leave his family and come into the office and help the obnoxious American travelers. Sometimes it's better to just let it go. Off we go to the rental car humbled by our foolishness and entitlement. So it's perfect that we're heading to DC! First stop - vegan food at Sticky Fingers Bakery north of the National Mall and it is delicious + I enjoyed a lovely vegan cupcake. Cupcakes I sure have missed you! We've slept 3 hours, just ate and are feeling the need for coffee. We make our way to the National Mall to find M E Swings Coffee Roasters as it is a famous location. Not realizing just what that meant when we finally arrived it is located just behind the White House! Famous location, I'd say so. After roughly 30 minutes of trying to locate a parking spot we get out and Embrace this beautiful day. Amazing and beautiful large structures built by the free masons surround the area, business men and women pass through the streets busily and we get our cup o'joe. For those of you coffee lovers, the location is lovely but the coffee is terrible (our doppios were severed in a drip mug and it was the longest pull I've experienced in a long time just short of a pour-over). Next up, we walk to the White House, it's so small compared to most of the buildings in the area and when you think of the power held inside, it's quite amazing! "Hello President Obama" I shout from the top of my lunges. I thought he seemed cool enough, maybe he'd consider stepping outside and saying hello. I was wrong, wa wa wa. Oh well, next up Natural History Museum. Everything appears so close but it's really not. The free masons really knew how to make a grand gesture, the buildings are HUGE and create some of the largest city blocks I know outside of New York City. Anyway, these buildings are immaculate, each one consisting of unique sculptures/engravings, and you stare in amazement realizing the power and work occurring behind the large iron wrought doors. Arriving at the Natural History Museum we walk through a security check point and make out way through the journey of dinosaurs, ocean life, ice age, butterflies, solar systems/volcanos, and even caught a glimpse of the hope diamond in a new, but temporary setting commemorating the fiftieth year donated! The new setting is a wrap necklace made from 360 baguette diamond with the Hooe Diamond centered above the collar bone. The model exuded an air of smugness, but seriously who can blame her. Life is amazing! Next up, the National Archives and the line is long. Nearing the idea of walking away the large group in front of us leaves and we advance to the front of the line and after mere moments we are entering, again passing through security we arrive at the exhibit. No photography and you have to stand in a particular order. Every security guard is equipped with a weapon, this is serious business. Walking up to the cases you see the Bill of Rights, Declaration of Independence, Constitution and Lincoln's letter to abolish slavery. It is quite amazing to see how well preserved these documents are and being that many of them are from the 1700's and on velum all I have left to say is you must see them for yourself! We make our way to Chinatown Coffee per the suggestion of Samuel and we will be meeting him there to spend the rest of the evening in DC drinking more coffee and enjoying a delicious Ethiopian meal.
Okay, I'm sure you coffee lovers are dying to know where we went and what we liked... So here it is, we went to Filter, the space is very quaint and charming. A step down from the sidewalk, exposed brick, sliding caulk menu board and a loely pour over bar - they make a delicious cup of the Ethiopian Dara Wata or Wato (I can't remember) - washed. Also the Kenya Samuel had was quite amazing. (note from Mj: i had the Ardi and they roasted it too dark. The fruit was masked behind a milk chocolate base) We sat on the brick steps and enjoyed the brisk air. We then headed to Peregrine Coffee, another lovely shop. Wood and metals join in making this space feel a lot like Seattle. At this point I was a little jittery from just finishing my 3rd cup but everyone enjoyed the coffee immensely. Later in the evening we went to Big Bear for TNT (Thursday Night Throwdown) Philedaphia v. DC. The place is packed and anyone can sign up. There is a screen broadcasting something live but the feed was terrible and I couldn't make it out. We stayed for a short time and enjoyed the company of Samuel when we both were fading from the lack of sleep and being over caffeinated.
Arriving in Dulles we make our way to the Ethiopian Airlines customer service office to retrieve our hotel voucher. The office is empty, so we make our way to the ticketing counter, also empty. Life is literally bustling around us as we stare at the counter shaking our heads knowing that no one from the airlines will be in this airport today. To the pay phone we go. Sitting on hold for 15 minutes we finally get in touch with someone to only be put on hold another 15 minutes. Finally we think there is a resolution, notes on our account from our call on the 4th, the instructions we receive are to get on the shuttle provided by the airlines, just ask information in the airport, they'll know. Obviously there is a misunderstanding, we need a hotel name to get on the right shuttle... MJ goes to information as I wait on hold to see if this option is legit. Of course it's not! So we get a telephone number to call that we are suppose to call for more information. Great, we disconnect from the call. Dial this number we were provided to find out it is a random Verizon cell number and no one answers. This time MJ phones the airline and again we wait on hold and grow a little more irritated by the minute. He connects with someone that appears to know what we are talking about or at least we thought... After explaining we are in the airport the gentleman says in 10 days you'll receive your voucher sir. MJ sternly explains the situation again and says you have 30 minutes to figure this out or a complaint will be filed with the FAA. He hangs up, we get a little laugh, head to Starbucks for tea and to burn a few minutes. Back to what I consider our own personal phone booth we go. Dial in and wait on hold for ohhhh 25 minutes this time. The charming hold music is now static on the other end. When we finally reach the man we were talking to previously we see the lights in the Ethiopian Airlines office turn on. After a few minutes we get the hotel arrangements. MJ says to me it looks like he was on his day off. Now we feel remorse at pressing so hard for our free hotel room. This poor guy had to leave his family and come into the office and help the obnoxious American travelers. Sometimes it's better to just let it go. Off we go to the rental car humbled by our foolishness and entitlement. So it's perfect that we're heading to DC! First stop - vegan food at Sticky Fingers Bakery north of the National Mall and it is delicious + I enjoyed a lovely vegan cupcake. Cupcakes I sure have missed you! We've slept 3 hours, just ate and are feeling the need for coffee. We make our way to the National Mall to find M E Swings Coffee Roasters as it is a famous location. Not realizing just what that meant when we finally arrived it is located just behind the White House! Famous location, I'd say so. After roughly 30 minutes of trying to locate a parking spot we get out and Embrace this beautiful day. Amazing and beautiful large structures built by the free masons surround the area, business men and women pass through the streets busily and we get our cup o'joe. For those of you coffee lovers, the location is lovely but the coffee is terrible (our doppios were severed in a drip mug and it was the longest pull I've experienced in a long time just short of a pour-over). Next up, we walk to the White House, it's so small compared to most of the buildings in the area and when you think of the power held inside, it's quite amazing! "Hello President Obama" I shout from the top of my lunges. I thought he seemed cool enough, maybe he'd consider stepping outside and saying hello. I was wrong, wa wa wa. Oh well, next up Natural History Museum. Everything appears so close but it's really not. The free masons really knew how to make a grand gesture, the buildings are HUGE and create some of the largest city blocks I know outside of New York City. Anyway, these buildings are immaculate, each one consisting of unique sculptures/engravings, and you stare in amazement realizing the power and work occurring behind the large iron wrought doors. Arriving at the Natural History Museum we walk through a security check point and make out way through the journey of dinosaurs, ocean life, ice age, butterflies, solar systems/volcanos, and even caught a glimpse of the hope diamond in a new, but temporary setting commemorating the fiftieth year donated! The new setting is a wrap necklace made from 360 baguette diamond with the Hooe Diamond centered above the collar bone. The model exuded an air of smugness, but seriously who can blame her. Life is amazing! Next up, the National Archives and the line is long. Nearing the idea of walking away the large group in front of us leaves and we advance to the front of the line and after mere moments we are entering, again passing through security we arrive at the exhibit. No photography and you have to stand in a particular order. Every security guard is equipped with a weapon, this is serious business. Walking up to the cases you see the Bill of Rights, Declaration of Independence, Constitution and Lincoln's letter to abolish slavery. It is quite amazing to see how well preserved these documents are and being that many of them are from the 1700's and on velum all I have left to say is you must see them for yourself! We make our way to Chinatown Coffee per the suggestion of Samuel and we will be meeting him there to spend the rest of the evening in DC drinking more coffee and enjoying a delicious Ethiopian meal.
Okay, I'm sure you coffee lovers are dying to know where we went and what we liked... So here it is, we went to Filter, the space is very quaint and charming. A step down from the sidewalk, exposed brick, sliding caulk menu board and a loely pour over bar - they make a delicious cup of the Ethiopian Dara Wata or Wato (I can't remember) - washed. Also the Kenya Samuel had was quite amazing. (note from Mj: i had the Ardi and they roasted it too dark. The fruit was masked behind a milk chocolate base) We sat on the brick steps and enjoyed the brisk air. We then headed to Peregrine Coffee, another lovely shop. Wood and metals join in making this space feel a lot like Seattle. At this point I was a little jittery from just finishing my 3rd cup but everyone enjoyed the coffee immensely. Later in the evening we went to Big Bear for TNT (Thursday Night Throwdown) Philedaphia v. DC. The place is packed and anyone can sign up. There is a screen broadcasting something live but the feed was terrible and I couldn't make it out. We stayed for a short time and enjoyed the company of Samuel when we both were fading from the lack of sleep and being over caffeinated.
20 October 2011
Departure Time!
We have made it to the airport and are ready for departure. Boarding the plane I look down the aisle and see we are stuck next to a mother and her young child. I turn to MJ and say "ruh ro!" sleepy, I hadn't realized how closely we were standing next to her because she looks straight at me and says "don't worry, she will sleep the whole flight." Feeling like an idiot I sit and realize the kid is actually kind of cute. Showing her photos of the kittens, she goes wild, so much so that she crawls over the arm rest and sits on my lap with a huge smile on her face. How does one say no to that? You just don't. It lasts a few moments and she returns to her mother. Next task, sleep! We both passed out and I only woke to the child having dreams of being the karate kid using me as her chopping block.
At last, touchdown in Dulles!
At last, touchdown in Dulles!
19 October 2011
The Final Countdown 1
Today has finally arrived. We leave tonight at 11:25pm and I couldn't be more excited! After work we'll finish the remaining few errands, pack the entertainment bag, charge the electronics, kitty maintenance, a drink or two with friends & hand over our keys to Jordan and Joe just before walking out the door. What journey it will be.
Stayed tuned for what's to come, "LIVE from Washington DC" tomorrow at sometime...
Stayed tuned for what's to come, "LIVE from Washington DC" tomorrow at sometime...
18 October 2011
The Final Countdown 2 - 1
2 days to go! I've been in a state of wonder of what our travels hold for us when we touchdown in the Capitol of Ethiopia, will we travel North or South first, will be spend our initial days in Addis Ababa? until last night. We received an email from Samuel, owner of Keffa Coffee (http://www.keffacoffee.com). Samuel has been an awesome contact for us and it turns out will be more than that. In the email we received there is a rough draft of our travel itinerary which includes:
Saturday - pick up from airport, check into hotel, lunch and time in Addis Ababa
Sunday - Museums and time around Addis Ababa
Monday thru Friday - Northern travel by car to Lalibela, Gondar Castle, Simien Mountains, and to a city called Axum where it is said the Ark of the Covenant may be.
Friday night - Return to Addis Ababa
Saturday thru Tuesday - Southern travel by car to the Yirgacheffe and Sidamo regions to visit the coffee farms, cup coffee, help harvest (hopefully), enjoy lunch and dinner with the farmers, and day trips to explore the area
Wednesday - Return to Addis Ababa and go to an auction, cup more coffee and roam around
Thursday thru Saturday - Cup coffee and the rest is for....
Saturday night thru Sunday - get on a plane and begin our journey home
Can't wait to get there and when we're there, I hope time slows.
Saturday - pick up from airport, check into hotel, lunch and time in Addis Ababa
Sunday - Museums and time around Addis Ababa
Monday thru Friday - Northern travel by car to Lalibela, Gondar Castle, Simien Mountains, and to a city called Axum where it is said the Ark of the Covenant may be.
Friday night - Return to Addis Ababa
Saturday thru Tuesday - Southern travel by car to the Yirgacheffe and Sidamo regions to visit the coffee farms, cup coffee, help harvest (hopefully), enjoy lunch and dinner with the farmers, and day trips to explore the area
Wednesday - Return to Addis Ababa and go to an auction, cup more coffee and roam around
Thursday thru Saturday - Cup coffee and the rest is for....
Saturday night thru Sunday - get on a plane and begin our journey home
Can't wait to get there and when we're there, I hope time slows.
17 October 2011
The Final Countdown 3-2-1
3 days to go! First stop - Washington DC. Ethiopian Airlines was kind enough to change their flight schedule on the day of our departure to Addis Ababa and doing so we were stranded in Washington DC for 32 hours instead of 4... While at first this was a drag on our schedule, they decided to provide us with a comped hotel and extended our returning flight by one day. Needless to say, a free day in DC, how could one say no? Today we'd like to give a special thanks to Ethiopian Airlines!
11 October 2011
The Prep Work
October 7th:
Day 3 of my shots and it feels never ending... I am sweating profusely as we walk into the Apothecary office. My arm is sore, the pain is my mind and I have to wait for the doctor to arrive. MJ is with me and we go sit in the office where she tells us the side effects of Yellow Fever and what to expect when traveling. The waiting is killing me... just get it over with already. I move around in my chair anxiously, lift up my shirt, she pinches my tricep and that was it, nothing, no pain, just a little prick. WOOO HOOO, we are both fully vaccinated and ready for our travels. A small $600 later (each), I look at MJ and we telepathically decide travels to countries that require these vaccinations are in our future for the next 10-25 years to come. We need to get mileage out of these OVER PRICED vaccinations.
October 6th:
My arm still hurts and yet I have 3 more shots to look forward to, super exciting day ahead of me... 3:30pm rolls around and we depart the office, Safeway - here we come! We arrive and promptly provide our insurance cards. After roughly 30 minutes of inputting the vaccinations and prescriptions into the system, the Pharmacist leans over the counter and states "yeah your insurance won't cover any of this." We have no choice and wait patiently for the pharmacist to prepare our shots.
MJ goes first, she jams a needle into his arm, wiggles it around and then decides to push the injection button, she continues to do this with each injection. Who does that? It seems she was enjoying this torture. I go next (2 shots is all I get, they won't accept my Yellow Fever prescription). I don't like to watch so I turn my head. MJ says without missing a beat, "OH MY, look at the size of that needle." OH NO! Don't say that, I'm scared, she does the same to me... stab, wiggle, inject. What a day this has been. We leave having vaccinations and medications in hand.
October 5th:
Oh dear... I wake in the middle of the night to pain. My arm is killing me. Someone might as well have punched me directly in the left deltoid. I attempt to pick up my arm and its just too tired to move. The pain unfortunately remains all day. In the meantime MJ is researching our options for the additional vaccinations we need. The appointment is set for tomorrow October 6th at Safeway in the University Village.
October 4th:
A trip to the doctor for my annual physical took place and with me, I brought a notepad with questions as usual. It seems I always forget the questions I have when sitting in that cold room with nothing but a strange over sized shirt looking thing with weird ties and you never know if the ties should go in the front or the back... just give us a warm blanket and when you're ready for the exam just reposition it! That's my two sense on it. Anyway... the doctor comes in and she asks the usual questions, I answer and she asks if I have any questions. One minute please, let me get them. I open the notepad and start with my travel questions. MJ and I are headed to Ethiopia and in my readings and on the CDC Website it sounds like I need a Yellow Fever prescription prior to leaving, also can I get a prescription for stomach issues should they come up and how about Meningitis? These questions leave a blank stare on her face and she responds with, it sounds like we need to reschedule your physical and we can make this a "travel consultation." I'm sorry, I don't seem to understand. Do you need to bill me for an additional office visit to answer these questions? She responds, Yes, I do. So I sit there in this strange gown, cold and listen to her talk about the dangers of traveling to the remote locations in Ethiopia. Needless to say, she scared me into getting the vaccinations for Hepatitis A, Polio Booster (apparently the Polio we were given as kids is no longer good enough), Yellow Fever, and Meningitis. Sitting in the chair the doctor was very unclear as to what the next steps were but she said get dressed and walked out. I waited for quite some time then ventured around the office to find her. She is nowhere to be found so I sit and wait. In walks the nurse and says you need to take your shirt off. WHAT? I just got dressed? You need to get your Meningitis shot, without warning she injects this thing into my arm and as she's walking out I hear in this little voice, your arm is going to really hurt for the next 24-48 hours. I receive the remainder of my prescriptions and head home, thinking... 3 more shots, 2 prescriptions and 12 more days to go.
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